Not by me. You Tube video by Linda Horton Dodson. Check it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64ZBG13_wf8
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Warping the Laniloom or any Mirrix Loom without shedding device
The first picture shows the loom warped. The second picture shows what the warp does when it reaches the warping bar. Notice how the warp does a U-turn around the bar, heading back in the direction from which it came. This is the key to warping the Mirrix Loom. You tie onto the warping bar, bring the warp up to the top beam and then around it so you are heading down the front of the loom. Take it around the bottom of the loom and up to the warping bar. Then you do a U-turn (again note close-up where the warp reverses direction by doing a U-turn and then heading back in the direction from which it came. Every time you reach the warping bar you will do a U-turn and head back from where you came. When you are done warping, tie onto warping bar.
It's really very simple. Your job is to keep the tension even. Doesn't have to be very tight because tension will later be added by turning the wing nuts. But even tension is key.
Do not worry about running out of thread (as long as you have the same thread on a different bobbin). When your bobbin runs dry, tie onto the warping bar. Then tie a new thread in the same place and continue in the correct direction (wherever you were headed before your bobbin ran dry). The final picture shows the Mirrix with 36 different colored threads on it. I tied on a new thread for each color and the tension was just fine.
Friday, October 2, 2009
Headers and Footers for Bead Weaving
A bead piece where you "needle weave" the first and last row. In this case you simply employ the tradtional methodo f bead "weaving" to start and finish the piece. In other words with threads all flat (this applies whether you are or are not using the shedding device) put your strung beads behind and in between the warps (if you are using the shedding device, it is in the neutral position and you are treating each pair of threads as one thread) and sew through the beads on the top of the warp. The next row can either continue this way, if you are NOT using the shedding device, or, if you are using the shedding device, by raising and lowering half the threads in order to actually weave your beads in between the two layers of threads. You will end your piece by again using the the traditional method of bead weaving.
A bead piece where you have woven a "header." This is actual weaving where you take your needle and thread and bring it under and over the warp threads, back and forth until you've built up about a half inch header. You can end your piece by creating a "footer,": same thing but at the end. For bead pieces begun and ended this way using the shedding device this will keep the piece from falling apart when you take it off the loom.
In all cases, you will need to tie off your warp ends after removing your piece]from the loom. I use overhand knots because other knots do not require tension to remain in place.
Claudia
Comments from Mary Alexander:
(Note from Claudia: This is an alternative way to begin and end a bead weaving which in fact is the same method one would use to begin and end a tapestry. It creates to fiber sections at the beginning and end of the weaving which you can fold under the bead weaving and sew to the back. It's a fast way to finish a bead piece.)
I weave a header before starting to weave the piece. I do this for one or both of two reasons. First, to get the warp threads to behave properly and to be sure they are in the right sequence. Secondly, if I also want to get rid of the warp threads after weaving. I also weave a "footer" after I've finished the bead weaving.
* in any case I use a yarn, or crochet thread, or whatever heavy bead thread I have available. I've been known to use micro-macrame cord. For discussion purposes I'll call this "yarn."
* I weave this just as we were taught in first grade ... tie on the yarn. then under / over / under /over etc .. one warp thread at a time across the first row, then reverse the sequence for the second row so that you are going OVER every warp thread that you had just gone under for the first row.
* I pack this yarn fairly tight as I weave it. I intend eventually to tie off all my warps by tying adjacent warps to each other.
* glueing the warp knots w/ Fray check or whatever works with the type of warp thread you are using.
* clipping the warps close to the knots,
* then folding the yarn header / footer over the knotted warps twice to encase the knots
* and sewing this yarn header/footer to the underside of the loom work.
the larger Mirrix looms have the option of using a shedding device. if the loom is to be warped for use with a shedding device, TWO warp threads are used in each spring dent. when the yarn headerand footer are woven, these two warp threads per dent are treated as one. When the first row of beads is woven with the shedding device
set up, these two warp threads are treated as one.
In essence, working with the shedding device creates a V shape, where half the warps are forward and the other half are back. The weft thread w/ all its beads is lain carefully into the base of this V and every bead is nestled gently into its proper place in between its two warp threads. Then you reverse the shed. The two sets of warp threads change places. The warps that had been in front of the weft thread w/ its beads now move to the back and close over the weft thread with all the beads, holding the beads in place.
A bead piece where you have woven a "header." This is actual weaving where you take your needle and thread and bring it under and over the warp threads, back and forth until you've built up about a half inch header. You can end your piece by creating a "footer,": same thing but at the end. For bead pieces begun and ended this way using the shedding device this will keep the piece from falling apart when you take it off the loom.
In all cases, you will need to tie off your warp ends after removing your piece]from the loom. I use overhand knots because other knots do not require tension to remain in place.
Claudia
Comments from Mary Alexander:
(Note from Claudia: This is an alternative way to begin and end a bead weaving which in fact is the same method one would use to begin and end a tapestry. It creates to fiber sections at the beginning and end of the weaving which you can fold under the bead weaving and sew to the back. It's a fast way to finish a bead piece.)
I weave a header before starting to weave the piece. I do this for one or both of two reasons. First, to get the warp threads to behave properly and to be sure they are in the right sequence. Secondly, if I also want to get rid of the warp threads after weaving. I also weave a "footer" after I've finished the bead weaving.
* in any case I use a yarn, or crochet thread, or whatever heavy bead thread I have available. I've been known to use micro-macrame cord. For discussion purposes I'll call this "yarn."
* I weave this just as we were taught in first grade ... tie on the yarn. then under / over / under /over etc .. one warp thread at a time across the first row, then reverse the sequence for the second row so that you are going OVER every warp thread that you had just gone under for the first row.
* I pack this yarn fairly tight as I weave it. I intend eventually to tie off all my warps by tying adjacent warps to each other.
* glueing the warp knots w/ Fray check or whatever works with the type of warp thread you are using.
* clipping the warps close to the knots,
* then folding the yarn header / footer over the knotted warps twice to encase the knots
* and sewing this yarn header/footer to the underside of the loom work.
the larger Mirrix looms have the option of using a shedding device. if the loom is to be warped for use with a shedding device, TWO warp threads are used in each spring dent. when the yarn headerand footer are woven, these two warp threads per dent are treated as one. When the first row of beads is woven with the shedding device
set up, these two warp threads are treated as one.
In essence, working with the shedding device creates a V shape, where half the warps are forward and the other half are back. The weft thread w/ all its beads is lain carefully into the base of this V and every bead is nestled gently into its proper place in between its two warp threads. Then you reverse the shed. The two sets of warp threads change places. The warps that had been in front of the weft thread w/ its beads now move to the back and close over the weft thread with all the beads, holding the beads in place.
Monday, September 28, 2009
A Fascinating and Original Method to Weave Wide Bead Pieces on The Mirrix
1. I do a single warp, one thread for each dent - 235 in my current piece on the big sister loom. One for each bead in the design plusone extra. I also use the extra bottom coil to help line up the warp threads.
2. I put a masonite board behind the warp threads and in front of the upright posts. This gives me a firm surface braced against the loom. I then put a softer pad - one of those velveteen jewelry mats - immediately behind the warp threads. Sometimes I need to put a thin magazine between the mat and the board to get the right tension. Once that's set up, I can needle weave a wide row without needing to get my hands behind the piece.
3. I use two needles/threads to control the weft tension. I start by tying threads to each side of the warps. As I am right handed, the left hand thread is the 'beading' thread, the one I load up the row of beads onto. Once it's full, I use the thin rod from the shedding device with an eraser taped to it to pass the needle and thread behind the warp threads and in front of the board and mat.
4. The 'weaving thread' is on the right side and I use that one to pass the thread back in front of the warp threads. It's mostly a matter of pushing the warp threads back until the beads snap in front, there is an audible click. Once the weaving needle is full of beads (20-30 beads for my size 10 needles) I strum the warp threads to make sure I caught all of them, again, there is a distinctive sound when it's right. Using the two threads I can weave 20-30 beads into place before having to snap the next set of beads into place. I can also pull on both sides of the `beading thread' to position the
beads without affecting the weaving thread.
5. The row is now finished and the two threads have switched sides. Like I said, it goes fairly quickly and I'm not fighting with all those double warp threads. I figure even if you use the shedding device and weave, this technique may help with that first and last row which does need to be needle woven.
I've never seen this method described anywhere, but it works for me and might help someone else who gets dyslexic sorting through all those warp threads and heddles. I used the shedding device on narrower pieces, but once I moved to 12+ inches, my brain gave up. I posted photos of the loom with the boards in place in case that
helps. I love my loom and just purchased a wider one (oh the plans I have) with the stand, which I love. Of course I have to be contrary there too: I C-clamp a board over the tray so I can work off a wider flat surface, see photos.
PS – the blue tape is because I kept catching my threads on the bottom coil piece – I know someone will ask.
Posted by
- Susan A
Thursday, September 24, 2009
No Warps to Weave in Bracelet
The beads were attached to the top bar by threading the required number of beads, and then wrapping around that thread and the bar in between each bead so that the strung beads are attached to the top warp bar. Do this for the bottom warpar. Thread warp through a top bead, a bottom bead, top bead, etc. until you have the required number of warps. Begin weaving just above first row of beads on bottom warp bar.
This is the finished piece. In order to remove it, jst cut the thread that is wrapped around the two warp bars. Your will hve two warp ends to weave back in. Notice that you have to place the two warp bars exactly the distance you want the length of your piece to be.
Tapestry Warp
I am often asked what kind of warp one should use for tapestry. I will try to provide a fairly broad answer to this question with the beginner tapestry weaver in mind. The sett for the yarns I will be recommending can range from 4 epi to 12 epi. I am very ignorant when it comes to warp used for small format tapestry, so you are on your own there.
Warp Options:
Inexpensive cotton carpet warp
Seine Twine
Linen
Wool
When I began weaving tapestry I used Maysville cotton carpet warp. It's cheap and comes in a variety of colors. When I became more serious about weaving tapestry, I gave up the cheap product and replaced it was the other three options on the above list. It finally struck me that the integrity of my tapestry would have a direct corollary to the quality of the warp. I also realized that since tapestry is a very hands-on technique and you are constantly rubbing your hands against the warp, the nicer the warp, the nicer the experience. That being said, if you don't want to initially invest a lot in your materials, buy some Maysville cotton carpet warp. Search the web. It's available in a variety of places.
Seine Twine is the best of cotton warps. It was originally used for making fishing nets. It comes in two different weights: 12/6 (which is 2 ply) and 12/9 (which is 3 ply). I think you are better off just sticking with the 12/6 since it is so strong you really won't have much need for the three ply, thicker version. Seine Twine, like any cotton, has some elasticity. Therefore, unlike linen, minor inconsistencies in warp tension (ie., you answered the phone in the middle of warping your Mirrix Loom and messed up on the tension a little bit when you returned to warping) will not be as readily noticed.
Linen. Ah Linen! I would recommend Fine Irish Linen in 8/2 Wetspun Tow Yarn. Linen has almost no elasticity. It is, in my humble opinion, almost impossible to warp most tapestry looms with it since most tapestry looms require that you tie each individual warp. Getting even tension is, well, nearly impossible. Getting even tension with linen on a Mirrix is really easy because it's a continuous warp. Just don't answer the telephone in the middle of warping. Any inconsistency will be noticed. So why use linen? It is beautiful and rich. It provides a certain body to your tapestry not possible with any other warp. You can always tell when a tapestry has been woven on a linen warp. It just has a certain richness to it. That being said, it is harder to weave on a linen warp than on a cotton or wool warp because it is not elastic. It won't move out of the way when you insert your weft. Your fingers might not be very happy after a long day of weaving on linen. But try it at least once. Maybe I should consider selling it from this site?
Wool warp is my favorite. It is quite elastic (more than cotton) but more importantly, since I mainly use wool weft, I find using a wool warp makes more sense. Apparently, the Navajos used wool warp for their rugs because when the wool warp and wool weft rub against each other it provides less wear on the rug than if the warp were cotton. Wool on wool is a good thing. I like it because I find the wool warp and weft bond together much more than cotton or linen warp and wool weft. Keep in mind that wool is covered with scales (which when felted tangle up together making it impossible to untangle) and those scales like to hug each other. So the wool weft hugs the wool warp and I believe creates a more stable tapestry. The weft will not slide down the wool warp as much as if the warp were linen or cotton. We do sell the wool weft on this site and I highly recommend it both for beginner and advanced weavers especially if you are using wool weft. Look for a future blog on what to use for weft.
Friday, September 18, 2009
Pull and Pray or Tape and Tug
Aptly renamed by Jeri, who used to call it "pull and pray", the tape and tug method requires that you tape down your piece (good strong packing tape . . . not some whimpy stuff) making sure to cover all of your beads, but don't press it down so much that you also stick your warp. I didn't have that problem but imagine one could.
If you do not cut your piece off the loom, the warp threads will be continuous and hence, because there is no risk of piercing your warp with your needle, you can pul that warp all the way through cretig four finished edges.
Start pulling from the middle out, which means choose a pair of warp threads and pull it until the opposite end is snug against the beads. Then go to the other end of the weaving and pull on that thread so it's snug against the beads. Your warp is going to get longer and longer and you might want to stop after an inch or so and sew in those ends.
If you do not cut your piece off the loom, the warp threads will be continuous and hence, because there is no risk of piercing your warp with your needle, you can pul that warp all the way through cretig four finished edges.
Start pulling from the middle out, which means choose a pair of warp threads and pull it until the opposite end is snug against the beads. Then go to the other end of the weaving and pull on that thread so it's snug against the beads. Your warp is going to get longer and longer and you might want to stop after an inch or so and sew in those ends.
If you use two spools of warp when you warp your loom this method works great. If you've only used one spool of warp, the two threads that are in one dent will be going in opposite directions and will have to be pulled individually. This is not the recommended route. So if you are going to do the tape and tug method (I love that name, Jeri) please use two spools of warp.
Additional comments from Jane Overman: I usually start in the middle of the bracelet. Put the project on the table flat and start in the middle. Go one direction and then the other. Pull one thread til it's snug against the bead. Follow it down to the other end and pull that thread thru to the opposite end. keep going til all threads are at one end or the other. If you get to a snag and it won't pull easily leave it alone and go to the next thread. (note from Claudia: you can then weave that thread in later)
Additional comments from Jane Overman: I usually start in the middle of the bracelet. Put the project on the table flat and start in the middle. Go one direction and then the other. Pull one thread til it's snug against the bead. Follow it down to the other end and pull that thread thru to the opposite end. keep going til all threads are at one end or the other. If you get to a snag and it won't pull easily leave it alone and go to the next thread. (note from Claudia: you can then weave that thread in later)
Making Heddles
This was posted by Mary Alexander who has always been a source of wonderful and inspiring information told in her inimitable style:
Hi, Morgan, Rhonda, and others who have been talking about making heddles . . . I bought my Mirrix a number of years ago, even before Claudia made her wonderful video. At that time the instructions explained how to create a jig for making heddles.
I gave my dear hubby the exact measurements for placement of two finishing nails - these are slender with almost no nail-head, and not too long. He drove these into a handy board, then clipped the heads off with wire cutters and used a file to round over the tops of the clipped nails.
Yes, making the heddles was somewhere between maddening and boring at the time it seemed very time-consuming. Now I'm glad I have them. I kept the jig (of course!!) and have even made more heddles for another project. I used Pearl Cotton size 8 - cotton so it wouldn't stretch, and size 8 so it would be thin enough to work easily with tiny beads like Delicas(excuse me, size 11/0 cylinder beads) and size 15/0s.
A tapestry needle is a very useful tool as you make heddles. Cut the heddle string long enough to work with it easily - long enough to hold onto, wrap around one jig post, make a single overhand knot, and guide the knot back to the tying jig post. I cut pieces of thread at least doublethe length of the finished heddle. After I tied the overhand knot loosely, I stuck the tapestry needle into the center of the overhand knot. Then I used the tapestry needle to guide the overhand knot back till it was very snug against the heddle post. then I dropped the needle and pulled on each end of the heddle string separately with each hand - this tightened the knot firmly (very similar to knotting between pearls, if anyone has done
this).
Heddles need to be the same length. After I finished making mine, I ran a strong piece of string through the loop ends, taped the ends of this"holding" string to my desk, and smoothed out the heddles with the knots pointing away from the "holding" string. any heddles that were too long or too short were clipped out of the collection. A sixteenth of an inch doesn't seem like much when you are looking at the heddles lying on a flat surface, but that much difference in heddle length will definitely preventa heddle from working properly in the shed.
Claudia gave me an excellent tip about using home-made heddles: as you put each heddle on the shedding device, put the heddle knots at the back, where the heddle goes around the small rod of the shedding device. if the knots wind up along the sides or at the front close to the bead/yarn work, the heddle knots can catch on each other and make it more difficult for the shedding device to move all the heddles and warps from one position to the other.
Using two different colors of warp threads will make this "stuck heddle" problem easier to spot. Another home-made tool I created is a "heddle checker." I cut a piece of manilla folder or mat board longer than my weaving and about the width of a ruler. This is better than a regular ruler because it's opaque. Anything that's long and flat, or long and round (like a dowel) will do.
Every so often, when I change sheds I slip the "ruler" into the V between the sheds - any "stuck"heddles are immediately obvious. I look at the heddles to figure our the cause of the problem. My two most frequent problems -
* Heddle knot in the wrong place, and catching on other warp threads?
slide the knot to the back of the shedding device again.
* Heddle knot has become too loose or too tight, causing one warp thread to stay in the wrong position?? GAAAH - once I cheerfully clipped and removed an ornery heddle because I thought I could easily replaceit. BAAAD decision; it took me forever to find the correct warp thread, and even *more* time to get the new heddle in the right sequence as I knotted it onto the shedding device rod amongst all the other heddles.
* Instead, leave the misbehaving heddle in place. try to tighten / loosen the knot using the trusty tapestry needle and perhaps a second needle, then re-tie the overhand knot while the misbehaving heddle is still
happily looped around its proper warp thread.
* If the heddle must be replaced, release the shedding device; move the misbehaving heddle upwards a little so you can follow the thread path easily; then put a long length of new heddle string in the same thread path. when you are certain you've got the right thread path around both the warp thread AND the shedding device rod, then clip the old heddle and tie the new one.
Note from Claudia: After spending quite a while talking to customer who had not purchased heddles and needed to make some really quickly (with no hammer or nails or wood) I came to the conclusion that she could cut piece of cardboard to create a gig around which to wrap the threads to make heddles. The width of the cardboard would need to be 3 1/8 inches. Or any material would do. A thin piece of wood, a piece of heavy plastic. The point is simply to create something you ca wrap the string around to get a uniform circle. Claudia
Hi, Morgan, Rhonda, and others who have been talking about making heddles . . . I bought my Mirrix a number of years ago, even before Claudia made her wonderful video. At that time the instructions explained how to create a jig for making heddles.
I gave my dear hubby the exact measurements for placement of two finishing nails - these are slender with almost no nail-head, and not too long. He drove these into a handy board, then clipped the heads off with wire cutters and used a file to round over the tops of the clipped nails.
Yes, making the heddles was somewhere between maddening and boring at the time it seemed very time-consuming. Now I'm glad I have them. I kept the jig (of course!!) and have even made more heddles for another project. I used Pearl Cotton size 8 - cotton so it wouldn't stretch, and size 8 so it would be thin enough to work easily with tiny beads like Delicas(excuse me, size 11/0 cylinder beads) and size 15/0s.
A tapestry needle is a very useful tool as you make heddles. Cut the heddle string long enough to work with it easily - long enough to hold onto, wrap around one jig post, make a single overhand knot, and guide the knot back to the tying jig post. I cut pieces of thread at least doublethe length of the finished heddle. After I tied the overhand knot loosely, I stuck the tapestry needle into the center of the overhand knot. Then I used the tapestry needle to guide the overhand knot back till it was very snug against the heddle post. then I dropped the needle and pulled on each end of the heddle string separately with each hand - this tightened the knot firmly (very similar to knotting between pearls, if anyone has done
this).
Heddles need to be the same length. After I finished making mine, I ran a strong piece of string through the loop ends, taped the ends of this"holding" string to my desk, and smoothed out the heddles with the knots pointing away from the "holding" string. any heddles that were too long or too short were clipped out of the collection. A sixteenth of an inch doesn't seem like much when you are looking at the heddles lying on a flat surface, but that much difference in heddle length will definitely preventa heddle from working properly in the shed.
Claudia gave me an excellent tip about using home-made heddles: as you put each heddle on the shedding device, put the heddle knots at the back, where the heddle goes around the small rod of the shedding device. if the knots wind up along the sides or at the front close to the bead/yarn work, the heddle knots can catch on each other and make it more difficult for the shedding device to move all the heddles and warps from one position to the other.
Using two different colors of warp threads will make this "stuck heddle" problem easier to spot. Another home-made tool I created is a "heddle checker." I cut a piece of manilla folder or mat board longer than my weaving and about the width of a ruler. This is better than a regular ruler because it's opaque. Anything that's long and flat, or long and round (like a dowel) will do.
Every so often, when I change sheds I slip the "ruler" into the V between the sheds - any "stuck"heddles are immediately obvious. I look at the heddles to figure our the cause of the problem. My two most frequent problems -
* Heddle knot in the wrong place, and catching on other warp threads?
slide the knot to the back of the shedding device again.
* Heddle knot has become too loose or too tight, causing one warp thread to stay in the wrong position?? GAAAH - once I cheerfully clipped and removed an ornery heddle because I thought I could easily replaceit. BAAAD decision; it took me forever to find the correct warp thread, and even *more* time to get the new heddle in the right sequence as I knotted it onto the shedding device rod amongst all the other heddles.
* Instead, leave the misbehaving heddle in place. try to tighten / loosen the knot using the trusty tapestry needle and perhaps a second needle, then re-tie the overhand knot while the misbehaving heddle is still
happily looped around its proper warp thread.
* If the heddle must be replaced, release the shedding device; move the misbehaving heddle upwards a little so you can follow the thread path easily; then put a long length of new heddle string in the same thread path. when you are certain you've got the right thread path around both the warp thread AND the shedding device rod, then clip the old heddle and tie the new one.
Note from Claudia: After spending quite a while talking to customer who had not purchased heddles and needed to make some really quickly (with no hammer or nails or wood) I came to the conclusion that she could cut piece of cardboard to create a gig around which to wrap the threads to make heddles. The width of the cardboard would need to be 3 1/8 inches. Or any material would do. A thin piece of wood, a piece of heavy plastic. The point is simply to create something you ca wrap the string around to get a uniform circle. Claudia
The Bottom Spring Kit and Do You Need It?
The bottom spring kit is not included with every loom because there are people who simply will not want a spring at the bottom of their loom. There are others who will want it sometimes (and when they don't want to use it, it won't get in the way as long as there is no spring in it). And there are those who will want to use it all the time.
What does it do? It has the same function on the bottom of the loom as on the top of the loom. It allows you to put a warp coil on the bottom of the loom to separate the warp threads. But once you've woven that first row of either beads or tapestry the coil on the bottom of the loom no longer has a function.
So why would you want it? The most common reason for wanting that coil on the bottom is: you are weaving a fairly wide bead piece using the shedding device (three or four or more inches, depending on your tolerance!) and you don't want to deal with trying to keep those warp threads neatly divided on the bottom while installing the shedding device. Can you do this without the bottom coil? Yes, you absolutely can. Would I recommend the bottoms spring kit for those who are attempting wide pieces? I probably would.
For tapestry weavers weaving in fine setts, this bottom spring kit might make the process easier. I personally never use the bottom spring when weaving tapestry and only use it when weaving a wider bead piece.
Can you rotate the weaving to advance it with the spring on the bottom? You will have to loosen the tension on the loom and actually remove the spring in order to do this. Once the spring is removed, you will have no problem rotating your weaving.
Do extra coils come with the bottom spring kit? No, you have to order those coils in addition. Carefully consider what coils you will actually be using. You don't need to buy all the coils to match the ones that come with the loom because chances are you will not be using all of them.
What does it do? It has the same function on the bottom of the loom as on the top of the loom. It allows you to put a warp coil on the bottom of the loom to separate the warp threads. But once you've woven that first row of either beads or tapestry the coil on the bottom of the loom no longer has a function.
So why would you want it? The most common reason for wanting that coil on the bottom is: you are weaving a fairly wide bead piece using the shedding device (three or four or more inches, depending on your tolerance!) and you don't want to deal with trying to keep those warp threads neatly divided on the bottom while installing the shedding device. Can you do this without the bottom coil? Yes, you absolutely can. Would I recommend the bottoms spring kit for those who are attempting wide pieces? I probably would.
For tapestry weavers weaving in fine setts, this bottom spring kit might make the process easier. I personally never use the bottom spring when weaving tapestry and only use it when weaving a wider bead piece.
Can you rotate the weaving to advance it with the spring on the bottom? You will have to loosen the tension on the loom and actually remove the spring in order to do this. Once the spring is removed, you will have no problem rotating your weaving.
Do extra coils come with the bottom spring kit? No, you have to order those coils in addition. Carefully consider what coils you will actually be using. You don't need to buy all the coils to match the ones that come with the loom because chances are you will not be using all of them.
Warp Coils Made Simple
Before you set up your Mirrix Loom, you will need to install a warp coil either just on the top or, if you are using the bottom spring kit, the identical coil on the bottom as well.
The larger looms come with four warp coils (the smaller two looms come with just one 14 dent coil).
So how do you tell those coils apart? Simple: The shortest coil is the 8 dent coil. The next coil is the 12 dent coil, the third longest coil is the 14 dent coil and the longest coil is the 18 dent coil.
So how do you know what coil to use. Again, this is easy to determine. We do include a chart of recommended coil size as it relates to beads. For tapestry, you need to determine how many warps you want to have per inch. Choose a corresponding coil.
Back to bead weaving: Put one linear inch of the beads you will be using on a needle. Count how many beads there on in that inch. Give or take a dent or so, that will be the recommended coil for you to use. For example, there are 18 size 11/0 Delicas in a linear inch, hence you would use the 18 dent coil for Delicas. You could, however, get away with using the 16 dent coil.
There are 14 11/0 seed beads in a linear inch (okay, so I didn't make up the numbers and have no idea why there are not 11 11/0 seed beads in a linear inch). You would use the 14 dent coil to weave those beads.
You can buy coils in the following sizes: 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 and22. Those higher numbers are for 15/0 seed beads and those of you who like to weave really fine tapestry.
Before you order all the coils, keep in mind that one coil can be used for several different setts. For example, the 8 dent coil can be warped at every other dent to become a 4 dent coil. 10 becomes 5. 12 becomes 4, 6 or 12. 14 divides into 7 (my favorite dent for tapestry) and 18 divides into 9 or 6. I believe that the coils we include with the shedding device looms cover most of what you will need for bead weaving or tapestry.
The larger looms come with four warp coils (the smaller two looms come with just one 14 dent coil).
So how do you tell those coils apart? Simple: The shortest coil is the 8 dent coil. The next coil is the 12 dent coil, the third longest coil is the 14 dent coil and the longest coil is the 18 dent coil.
So how do you know what coil to use. Again, this is easy to determine. We do include a chart of recommended coil size as it relates to beads. For tapestry, you need to determine how many warps you want to have per inch. Choose a corresponding coil.
Back to bead weaving: Put one linear inch of the beads you will be using on a needle. Count how many beads there on in that inch. Give or take a dent or so, that will be the recommended coil for you to use. For example, there are 18 size 11/0 Delicas in a linear inch, hence you would use the 18 dent coil for Delicas. You could, however, get away with using the 16 dent coil.
There are 14 11/0 seed beads in a linear inch (okay, so I didn't make up the numbers and have no idea why there are not 11 11/0 seed beads in a linear inch). You would use the 14 dent coil to weave those beads.
You can buy coils in the following sizes: 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 and22. Those higher numbers are for 15/0 seed beads and those of you who like to weave really fine tapestry.
Before you order all the coils, keep in mind that one coil can be used for several different setts. For example, the 8 dent coil can be warped at every other dent to become a 4 dent coil. 10 becomes 5. 12 becomes 4, 6 or 12. 14 divides into 7 (my favorite dent for tapestry) and 18 divides into 9 or 6. I believe that the coils we include with the shedding device looms cover most of what you will need for bead weaving or tapestry.
This is a reprint of the exact instructions that come with the Mirrix Loom
Setting Up Your Mirrix Loom
Overview
Preparing your loom for weaving consists of two steps:
Warping: Wrapping strong yarn or beading thread vertically around the loom and equally spaced across its width by using the spring located near the top of the loom.
Installing the shedding device and setting it up for operation: The shedding device is standard on the 22, 32 and 38 inch looms and optional for the 12 and 16 inch looms. It is not necessary for the kind of bead work where you sew back through your beads to attach them to the warp. It is necessary for tapestry weaving and for the kind of bead weaving (unique to the Mirrix Loom) which requires you actually weave your beads rather than sew them onto the warp. The shedding device raises every other warp thread creating what is known in weaving lingo as the “shed” (the space between the two sets of threads) in which you can weave either your weft (in tapestry) or your strung beads.
Warping Instructions
If you are warping your loom for tapestry or for bead work without the shedding device, you will be placing one warp in each dent (the space in the spring). If you are warping your loom for bead work using the shedding device, you will be placing two warps in a dent.
Adjust the height of your loom. The wing nuts on the threaded steel bars on each side of your loom allow you to adjust the height of your loom and the tension of the warp. Because the warp wraps continuously around the loom, you will be able to weave a tapestry or bead piece as long as one and a half times the height at which you loom is extended. When adjusting to make your loom smaller, leave at least two inches of the threaded bar exposed in order to allow for necessary tension adjustment. When adjusting to make your loom larger, make sure the copper tube covers at least four inches of the threaded bar on the 12 & 16 inch looms and six inches of the threaded bar on the 22, 32 & 38 inch looms in order to guarantee stability of the copper side bars when the loom is fully extended and to allow for tension adjustment.
Attach warping bar. Clip a black plastic clip onto each of the copper metal side bars facing toward the back of your loom about equal distance from the loom’s top and bottom beams. The ends of the warping bar fit in the small indentations drilled in the insides of each clip that are just behind the large front set of holes. In order for the warping bar to stay in the clips, you must press them in slightly so that they are no longer parallel. The warping bar is not too short and it will stay in place! You will only be placing the aluminum bar at this point. The shedding device will be installed after you warp your loom.
Choose and install the correct warp coil (the spring at the top of your loom). Determine how many ends per inch (epi) you would like your warp to be. To figure out which coil is which, place a coil on the loom and measure one inch. Count the number of dents in that inch. That is your coil size. The total range of warp coils available is: 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 dents per inch and can be purchased additionally. The following chart will help you decide what coil to use for bead weaving. Remember to be gentle when removing the warp coil, which is hooked at either end to the two brass acorn nuts at the top of your loom. Don’t grasp the coil in the middle, because it can distort it. The steel rod that is inserted in your coil will be used after you warp your loom to keep the warps from escaping the coil once the loom is set up. It also helps hold the coil in the tray when you advance your weaving.
Bead Type/Size | 1st Choice | 2nd Choice |
Delica: Small | 18 every dent | 20 every dent |
Delica: Large | 16 every other dent | 8 every dent |
Seed Beads: 15/0 | 20 every dent | 22 every dent |
11/0 | 14 every dent | 12 every dent |
8/0 | 18 every other dent | 8 every dent |
6/0 | 14 every other dent | 12 every other dent |
Cubes 4mm: | 14 every other dent | 12 every other dent |
Triangles: 10/0 | 12 every dent | 14 every dent |
8/0 | 18 every other dent | 8 every dent |
5/0 | 12 every other dent | 14 every dent |
Suggestion: Place a couple of thick books underneath the legs of the loom in order to raise it up so that you will have clearance for the warp ball or cone as you pass the warp around the loom. For the 8, 12 and 16 inch loom you can instead use a C-clamp to attach one leg to a table with the rest of the loom extending off the table.
Decide how wide your tapestry or bead piece will be. Center that measurement on the warping bar. Find the left beginning point for your weaving on the warping bar and tie the end of the warp at that point. (Note: if you are weaving two bead pieces at the same time you can put two sets of warp on by balancing the pieces to the left and right of the center of the loom.) Bring the warp up the back of the loom and around the top beam, laying it into the coil, and down the front of the loom, around the bottom beam and up back to the warping bar. Do a U-turn around the front of the warping bar thereby reversing direction and heading back down to the bottom beam. Take the warp up the front of the loom to the top beam and through the spring, around the top beam and back down the back of the loom, around the bottom beam and up the front of the loom, laying it into the next dent in the spring. Bring the warp down to the warping bar, make a U-turn around the warping bar and head back up to the top beam of your loom and through the warp coil and then head down the front of the loom to the bottom beam. Continue this pattern until you have achieved your desired width, trying you best to keep an even, consistent tension on the warp as your wrap it. Tie the end of your warp to the warping bar. It doesn’t matter whether or not you’ve come up from the bottom beam or down from the top beam. You can determine the number of warps you have wrapped by counting the number of times you warp has gone through the warp coil.
Circulate the warping bar to the back of the loom. Remove the black clips and loosen the tension wing nuts on both sides of the loom. Rotate the warping bar down, around the bottom beam of the loom, and up the back of the loom until it is situated about one inch above the bottom beam.
Adjust the warp tension. Adjust the wing nuts evenly on either side of the loom so that the top beam rises and tension is placed on the warp. When you feel the warp is tense enough for your liking, stop adjusting. We’ve included a wrench that can be used to turn the wing nuts more easily or to provide that extra tension required for tapestry weaving.
Installing and Setting up the Shedding Device
The shedding device is used to lift every other warp thread so that you can insert your tapestry weft or your strung beads. In order for it to function, it needs to be attached to the warp threads. Heddles, which are circles of string made from any kind of fairly thin, strong, inelastic material, attach the shedding device to the warp threads. When the shedding device is rotated, a shed is created. A shed is the word that describes the space between the raised and stationary warps.
Clamp the shedding device onto the two copper side bars. Place one black clip on the copper side bar of the loom with the wing nut facing out. Insert the shedding device into the large hole in the clip. Place the second clip on the other end of the shedding device and clamp onto the copper side bar of the loom. The position of the shedding device is always adjustable by loosening the clips’ wing nuts and sliding it up or down, so don’t worry about exactly where you put it now. Midway between the top and the bottom of the copper side bar is a good starting place. Make sure the hole for the handle is on the side that is comfortable for you, but wait until you’ve put on the heddles before putting on the handle. You can make your own heddless or use the pre-made Mirrix heddles which come on a roll of one hundred. They look like one long string when removed from the roll. You will notice a series of big and small holes. Cut in the middle of the small holes to separate the heddles.
Making and Installing Heddles:
You will need to make as many individual heddles as there will be warps in your weaving. These heddles (as well as the Mirrix heddles you can buy) will be reusable. The thinner and stronger the string you use the better. For bead weavers, cotton quilting thread works great. For tapestry weavers, cotton crochet thread, linen warp, single-ply cotton warp works well.
Nail two finishing nails into a piece of wood three and one-eight inches apart. You will use this little tool to tie your warps. Cut ten inch lengths of your heddle material, one for each heddle you will make, Tie them around the nails, using an overhand knot to secure the ends. In order to get that knot to sit right next to the nail, slip a needle into the knot before it is pulled tight and push the knot toward the nail. Then tighten it. Trim off the ends of the heddles to within a quarter of an inch of the knot.
Installing Heddles for Tapestry Weaving:
Loosen the screw in the brass hook through which the top thin metal bar is inserted and slide it out over the black plastic clips so that the end of the bar is an inch or so past where the warp begins. Tighten the screw in the hook to keep the bar stable.
Hook one of the heddles over the thin metal bar. Wrap the heddle around the first warp and then hook it back over the metal bar. You are folding the heddle in two. Keep wrapping the heddles around every other warp and around the metal bar, pushing the metal bar along the copper tube as needed remembering to loosen and tighten the screw in the hook. When you are finished putting the heddles on, slide the thin metal bar into the farthest brass hook and then tighten the screw in the other brass hook.
Rotate the shedding device toward the loom until the top bar is not the bottom bar.
The bottom bar is now your top bar. Repeat instructions for attaching your heddles to the warps that do not yet have heddles attached to them.
Installing Heddles for Bead Weaving:
Loosen the screws in the brass hooks for both the top and bottom thin metal bars. Slide out both of these bars so that their ends are an inch or so past where the warp begins.
Hook one of the heddles over the top thin metal bar and then wrap it around one of the warps in the first dent of the spring, reattaching it to the thin metal bar. Some people find that a crochet hook helps to pull the warp forward.
Repeat the above step for the bottom metal bar, attaching the heddle to the second warp in the first dent of the spring.
Repeat the above two steps for all subsequent warps being careful to not wrap the top and bottom heddles around the same warps.
Operation of the Shedding Device
Place the handle in the hole drilled near one end of the shedding device. The handle should be facing toward you.
Engage the shedding device by hooking the handle behind the copper bar. Make sure every other warp is raised. If this is not the case, find the problem heddle and remove all the heddles back to that point.
Position the shedding device at a height with which you feel comfortable. The handle can hook around the copper side bar, but it can also hook behind the top beam of the loom or even around the plastic cap above the top beam. The rubber coating on the handle will make it stay in place no matter where you hook it and will also prevent it from scratching the copper and aluminum.
To Begin Weaving
For Tapestry Weave two passes of warp material. Measure two pieces of yarn each approximately one and a half times the width of the loom. Engage the shedding device. Weave in the first piece leaving an equal amount of yarn left over on each side. Engage the shedding device in the opposite direction. Weave in the second piece. Tie the ends of both of these yarns securely around the threaded side poles of the loom, pulling tightly so that an even straight surface is created for weaving just above the top of the front of the bottom beam. Adjust the warps so that are evenly spaced. You are ready to begin weaving.
For bead weaving: do not use the shedding device to weave in these first two rows. Instead, thread a large eye needle with strong string. Needle weave up and over the warp pairs, treating each pair of warp as one. Weave under the odd pairs of warps for the first row. Weave under the even pairs of warps for the second row. These two rows of strings will divide your pairs of warps making it easy to weave in your first row of beads.
For both tapestry and bead weaving: In order to advance your weaving to expose more warp, you will first need to cut the two spacing wefts that were tied to the side poles of your loom and remove them. Loosen the warp by turning the wing nuts clockwise. When there is a fair amount of slack in the warp, gently pull the warping bar up exposing as much warp as you need at the front of the loom to continue weaving. Make sure that your weaving is straight and even. Tighten the wing nuts until the warps are once again under tension.
Tips for Bead Weavers Using the Shedding Device:
· Always needle weave in your first and last row treating pairs of warps in each dent as single warps. To do this, place your shedding device in the neutral position and place your strung beads behind and between the pairs of warps. Sew back through the beads on front of the warp. If you do not do this when you remove your piece from the loom it will fall apart since it’s the crossing of the warps that keeps your beads in place.
· Once you’ve inserted the thread with your beads on it into the shed (the space between the raised and lowered warps) hold the thread between your left and right hands an inch or so above the V created where the two sets of warps meet. Jiggle the thread until the beads are caught between each of the raised warps. Once they are in place, slide the thread and beads down into the V. The beads will be caught there.
· Start with a fairly thin piece to get used to the process before attacking something wide and potentially overwhelming.
· A slightly baggy tension will prevent a clean shed. Adjust the tension until you have a clean and open shed in both directions.
· It takes several rows of weaving with the shedding device before the heddles and warps all find their proper place and stop sticking together. Don’t get frustrated. By about row five or six, weaving will get very easy.
· After you’ve changed the shed, strum the back of your hand across the warps making sure that the warps or heddles are not stuck together, preventing the shed from being clean with all up warps up and down warps down.
· Make sure you change the shed before weaving each new row. In order to determine whether or not you’ve changed the shed, lift up on the last row of beads you’ve woven. If the she has been changed you will not be able to lift them.
Finishing for Bead Weaving:
· “Pull and pray” or “tape and tug” method of finishing your piece is possible both with or without using the shedding device. If you don’t use the shedding device, be sure not to catch your warp threads with the thread that holds your beads. When using the shedding device, use the thinnest warp possible. A thick warp will not want to pull through the beads.
You also have to warp your loom with two spools of warp at the same time. This method requires that you carefully pull the warp which snakes through your piece so that you are left with four finished selvedges. Tape down your piece (good strong packing tape . .. not some wimpy stuff) making sure to cover all of your beads, but don't press it down so much that you also stick your warp. Start pulling from the middle out, which means choose a pair of warp threads and pull it until the opposite end is snug against the beads. Then go to the other end of the weaving and pull on that thread so it's snug against the beads. Your warp is going to get longer and longer and you might want to stop after an inch or so and sew in those ends.
You also have to warp your loom with two spools of warp at the same time. This method requires that you carefully pull the warp which snakes through your piece so that you are left with four finished selvedges. Tape down your piece (good strong packing tape . .. not some wimpy stuff) making sure to cover all of your beads, but don't press it down so much that you also stick your warp. Start pulling from the middle out, which means choose a pair of warp threads and pull it until the opposite end is snug against the beads. Then go to the other end of the weaving and pull on that thread so it's snug against the beads. Your warp is going to get longer and longer and you might want to stop after an inch or so and sew in those ends.
· You can also tie off the pairs of warp threads and fold them behind your piece. You can then sew on some nice edging material, such as hem binding to hide the knots.
· My favorite method is to weave in a header and footer after you’ve woven your piece. I use a tapestry needle to do this. The material for the header and footer can be the same thread you’ve used for warp or a fine silk or rayon. To do this weave under and over the pairs of warps both at the beginning of your piece and at the end. Make the header or footer wide enough so that you can fold it twice, hiding the knots underneath it. Carefully sew this with blind stitches so that you have a very neat, attractive fiber border on the back of your piece. This works great for purses, bracelets and wall hangings.
· Other methods of finishing such as sewing back in all your warp threads are also acceptable although very time-consuming.
A note about the second warping bar kit:
The second warping bar has two functions: If you are using the Mirrix loom for the sewing method of weaving beads, the warping bar eliminates the back section of warp. This is great when you are doing a wide piece because you don't have to stick your hand in between that second layer of warp. For thin pieces (fewer than four inches or five inches) this would not be an issue anyway. The second function is when you are using the shedding device. It allows you to put on a much shorter warp so that when you have to pull all those warp threads through they are not going to be as long.
A note about the bottom spring kit: If you have attached the extra spring kit to your loom, you will need to place the warping bar on the back of your loom while warping. The reason for this is the bottom spring will not allow you to rotate the warping bar to the back.
HAVE FUN AND BE CREATIVE
Don’t be afraid of set backs and failures. From those experiences emerge our greatest creations.
Start small. Learn the Mirrix Loom before you create an enormous piece.
If you are having difficulty setting up your loom please call Claudia at: 603-547-6278. She can talk you through any Mirrix-related problem.
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