Warping the Laniloom or any Mirrix Loom without shedding device

These instructions and illustrations apply to warping the laniloom or any Mirrix loom when not using the shedding device.  It also applies to warping the loom for tapestry before you've put on the shedding device.  Below is a photo of the loom warped.   Note how the warp essentially goes around the loom.  It does not cross inside the loom.  This is an important mistake to look for.  The warping bar is on the back of the loom, where it will stay, although you can adjust it up or down once  you've warped your loom.

The first picture shows the loom warped.  The second picture shows what the warp does when it reaches the warping bar.  Notice how the warp does a U-turn around the bar, heading back in the direction from which it came.  This is the key to warping the Mirrix Loom.  You tie onto the warping bar, bring the warp up to the top beam and then around it so you are heading down the front of the loom.  Take it around the bottom of the loom and up to the warping bar.  Then you do a U-turn (again note close-up where the warp reverses direction by doing a U-turn and then heading back in the direction from which it came.  Every time you reach the warping bar you will do a U-turn and head back from where you came.  When you are done warping, tie onto warping bar.

It's really very simple.  Your job is to keep the tension even.  Doesn't have to be very tight because tension will later be added by turning the wing nuts.  But even tension is key.

Do not worry about running out of thread (as long as you have the same thread on a different bobbin).  When your bobbin runs dry, tie onto the warping bar.  Then tie a new thread in the same place and continue in the correct direction (wherever you were headed before your bobbin ran dry).  The final picture shows the Mirrix with 36 different colored threads on it.  I tied on a new thread for each color and the tension was just fine.